Mon 4/25
The next day, some people came over for lunch. I had time to sit and talk with another person about Addis. His field was constructions so it was interesting to hear things from his perspective. He described things as basically very cut throat. The government owns the land and when you buy land you are buying only a piece of that from the government. The government basically tells them that if they can afford to live there, they can stay, but if they can’t then they must sell and go elsewhere. A few years ago, the got didn’t have a master plan for development, the city was in limbo and it was much easier for the lower class to survive. But now that there is a master plan and it being so cut throat, it isn’t easy. Therefore as the city develops, it’s harder for the lower class to survive. All the changes are especially hurting them. Not only with their homes but even at the markets. There is a bit of a black market. The merchants have started to withhold necessities like sugar and oil and sell it at a higher price, which is ok for the middle class but leaves the lower class to suffer. Then smaller markets will go and sell it at a lower price but that leaves the market overcrowded and people have to wait in long lines just because it is offered at an affordable price. He described the middle class as people with jobs cars and can afford to eat. The lower class can eat if they are lucky.
However, compared to many other countries and cities in Africa, he described Addis as one of the safest and a city that is quickly developing; makes me fear for other places.
I know that I can’t really compare what I think is happy to theirs and I know that but I can’t help but think if they knew any better, they wouldn’t be happy. I really just can’t wrap my head around it.
I came on this trip hoping to become more Ethiopian but up until this point, I have never felt so AMERICAN. My position in the biggest debate on whether I can call myself Ethiopian has changed. Even though I was raised in the Ethiopian culture, nothing could prepare for me for what Ethiopia is actually like. Sure I know the customs and how to act but being here, I feel like an outside. An outsider who has three more weeks to find a way in and feel more Ethiopian.
Tues 4/26
I’ve begun a routine here at Aunty Nesant’s which is similar to theirs. I go to bed early around 8 or 9 and wake up around 630 or 7. I suppose this is the life without internet. However, fox movies have been saving me. Haha. Anyway, it’s kind of nice. I get a good amount of sleep and every morning I wake up and read in bed for awhile. Usually for an hour or two, then I wake up, shower, make my bed then go downstairs for breakfast.
Today we were starting off our day at the National Museum of Ethiopia. It was really cool to see and learn all about the Ethiopian history. Even though I’ve learned about it in school and read on my own, it was really cool to see artifacts, fossils and art. I normally don’t enjoy museums but I really enjoyed this one.
After the museum we went to shuro meda to buy me an abesha kemise. I can’t figure out what my problem is here when it comes to shopping. The exchange rate is ridiculous, this will probably be the richest ill ever be in life, but to think that I have to pay over a thousand dollars for a thin clothed dress turns me off. Much like when we went to the city center, a small clutch purse was over 600 birr. The price was just offsetting. Stinginess aside…it was really hard picking out a dress. I wanted more than one. I wanted a traditional one and a fancier one. I saw one right when I got there and immediately fell in love with it. I thought the design on it was meskels but after I asked, I learned that it was just a simple design. This kind of turned me off, so then I went to a different place and found one that I liked, but didn’t love and it was out of my price range. In the end I did leave with a dress…for my sister.
After Shuro meda we went to my aunt’s house because she was flying back to the states later that night. She was in town for two weeks because they were remodeling her house and she had to deal with the government and them wanting her to either rebuild or sell. Her house was nice. Definitely a work in progress but it just had character. From the stones outside, the different colors, I liked it a lot. We had lunch and coffee and then left. It was a nice afternoon. It was just nice to spend time with her because I hardly see her since she lives on the east coast. That’s one of the things I love about this trip, reconnecting with distant family. My family is so spread out; it’s hard to stay in contact with EVERYONE.
Something was different today, being in Addis. I think when I got here I was thrown into this different world, then after spending some time at aunty Netsant’s I was able to digest everything. Coming back into the city was enjoyable. I was starting to notice a lot of people my age, especially around the college. I was starting to notice a lot more normal people. Whether this is what they mean by “accepting” or “adjusting” I was starting to see the real beauty and look past all of the sad things. Not to say I’m ignoring it, that’s hard to do, but I’m not focusing on it and seeing what else Addis has to offer. Besides being over populated, congesting and a work in progress, it’s beautiful.
The next couple of days were relaxing. One morning when Aunty Netsant went to the gym, I saw the process of making enjera. Likdey, allowed me to make one myself. Basically there is this large circular metal stove top. After making the mix, you scoop up a small pitcher full and you pour it on the stove in a circular motion. The enjera cooks in like 10 minutes total. I didn’t really have a steady hand so mine came out kind of funky looking but it was definitely cool thing to learn.
The two things I had been thinking about lately were about the socio economic status. I’m being spoiled by visiting here and falling into the upper class. But I’m wondering what life is like for the lower class. Aside from what is obvious and what you see, what is a day in their lives? Because all I’ve been doing is waking up, having breakfast, driving around, eating lunch, having coffee, socializing etc. I’m being waited on and I’m in a reliable car with disposable money. But what is it like for them? How are they treated? I guess what I mean is by looking at me, you can tell I am American and then I am not poor. But looking at some of them, are they treated differently? Horribly? Or is it like how we treat the poor in America?
I’m also wondering about the servants. How do they get this job? There was a girl at Tia Ababa’s house. Beautiful girl had to be my age, maybe a bit younger. When she got there she looked like she had just gotten home from school. At first I was confused as to whether she was there to be a servant or if she was someone’s daughter and was just being respectful to her guest but she made the coffee for us. I don’t know if I have described the coffee process but it’s not adding hot water to a pot and pressing a button. It is a full on process. Starting with burning the itan, and making the coffee and then serving us each 3 different servings. I saw some other girls in aunty Netsant’s coldesack, who were the maids and they looked like they were in their teens. I guess what I’m wondering is how they get that position. Is that something they work towards? Does it just happen? Is it arranged by their families? I guess it just seems odd to me because I’m conditioned to go to school and find a job, is this just a side job for them? Much like everything else I guess I’m just confused. Surprised?
My second to last day at Aunty Netsant’s we went to see my Aunt Almaz. There I spent some time with her daughter Mami, and her two kids who I have never meant: Lebain and Endalk (legit name, meaning as you are). This was cool because I hardly get to see them. My aunt said the last time she saw me I was 7 or 8. We had a delicious lunch and I played with the kids and then we left.
The week at aunty Netsant’s flew by. My brother told me my time in Addis would fly by, but I didn’t believe it until today. The last week just flew before my eyes. Now I’m back at the hotel, reading and writing and realizing, I now only have a little over two weeks left. Crazy.
The next day, some people came over for lunch. I had time to sit and talk with another person about Addis. His field was constructions so it was interesting to hear things from his perspective. He described things as basically very cut throat. The government owns the land and when you buy land you are buying only a piece of that from the government. The government basically tells them that if they can afford to live there, they can stay, but if they can’t then they must sell and go elsewhere. A few years ago, the got didn’t have a master plan for development, the city was in limbo and it was much easier for the lower class to survive. But now that there is a master plan and it being so cut throat, it isn’t easy. Therefore as the city develops, it’s harder for the lower class to survive. All the changes are especially hurting them. Not only with their homes but even at the markets. There is a bit of a black market. The merchants have started to withhold necessities like sugar and oil and sell it at a higher price, which is ok for the middle class but leaves the lower class to suffer. Then smaller markets will go and sell it at a lower price but that leaves the market overcrowded and people have to wait in long lines just because it is offered at an affordable price. He described the middle class as people with jobs cars and can afford to eat. The lower class can eat if they are lucky.
However, compared to many other countries and cities in Africa, he described Addis as one of the safest and a city that is quickly developing; makes me fear for other places.
I know that I can’t really compare what I think is happy to theirs and I know that but I can’t help but think if they knew any better, they wouldn’t be happy. I really just can’t wrap my head around it.
I came on this trip hoping to become more Ethiopian but up until this point, I have never felt so AMERICAN. My position in the biggest debate on whether I can call myself Ethiopian has changed. Even though I was raised in the Ethiopian culture, nothing could prepare for me for what Ethiopia is actually like. Sure I know the customs and how to act but being here, I feel like an outside. An outsider who has three more weeks to find a way in and feel more Ethiopian.
Tues 4/26
I’ve begun a routine here at Aunty Nesant’s which is similar to theirs. I go to bed early around 8 or 9 and wake up around 630 or 7. I suppose this is the life without internet. However, fox movies have been saving me. Haha. Anyway, it’s kind of nice. I get a good amount of sleep and every morning I wake up and read in bed for awhile. Usually for an hour or two, then I wake up, shower, make my bed then go downstairs for breakfast.
Today we were starting off our day at the National Museum of Ethiopia. It was really cool to see and learn all about the Ethiopian history. Even though I’ve learned about it in school and read on my own, it was really cool to see artifacts, fossils and art. I normally don’t enjoy museums but I really enjoyed this one.
After the museum we went to shuro meda to buy me an abesha kemise. I can’t figure out what my problem is here when it comes to shopping. The exchange rate is ridiculous, this will probably be the richest ill ever be in life, but to think that I have to pay over a thousand dollars for a thin clothed dress turns me off. Much like when we went to the city center, a small clutch purse was over 600 birr. The price was just offsetting. Stinginess aside…it was really hard picking out a dress. I wanted more than one. I wanted a traditional one and a fancier one. I saw one right when I got there and immediately fell in love with it. I thought the design on it was meskels but after I asked, I learned that it was just a simple design. This kind of turned me off, so then I went to a different place and found one that I liked, but didn’t love and it was out of my price range. In the end I did leave with a dress…for my sister.
After Shuro meda we went to my aunt’s house because she was flying back to the states later that night. She was in town for two weeks because they were remodeling her house and she had to deal with the government and them wanting her to either rebuild or sell. Her house was nice. Definitely a work in progress but it just had character. From the stones outside, the different colors, I liked it a lot. We had lunch and coffee and then left. It was a nice afternoon. It was just nice to spend time with her because I hardly see her since she lives on the east coast. That’s one of the things I love about this trip, reconnecting with distant family. My family is so spread out; it’s hard to stay in contact with EVERYONE.
Something was different today, being in Addis. I think when I got here I was thrown into this different world, then after spending some time at aunty Netsant’s I was able to digest everything. Coming back into the city was enjoyable. I was starting to notice a lot of people my age, especially around the college. I was starting to notice a lot more normal people. Whether this is what they mean by “accepting” or “adjusting” I was starting to see the real beauty and look past all of the sad things. Not to say I’m ignoring it, that’s hard to do, but I’m not focusing on it and seeing what else Addis has to offer. Besides being over populated, congesting and a work in progress, it’s beautiful.
The next couple of days were relaxing. One morning when Aunty Netsant went to the gym, I saw the process of making enjera. Likdey, allowed me to make one myself. Basically there is this large circular metal stove top. After making the mix, you scoop up a small pitcher full and you pour it on the stove in a circular motion. The enjera cooks in like 10 minutes total. I didn’t really have a steady hand so mine came out kind of funky looking but it was definitely cool thing to learn.
The two things I had been thinking about lately were about the socio economic status. I’m being spoiled by visiting here and falling into the upper class. But I’m wondering what life is like for the lower class. Aside from what is obvious and what you see, what is a day in their lives? Because all I’ve been doing is waking up, having breakfast, driving around, eating lunch, having coffee, socializing etc. I’m being waited on and I’m in a reliable car with disposable money. But what is it like for them? How are they treated? I guess what I mean is by looking at me, you can tell I am American and then I am not poor. But looking at some of them, are they treated differently? Horribly? Or is it like how we treat the poor in America?
I’m also wondering about the servants. How do they get this job? There was a girl at Tia Ababa’s house. Beautiful girl had to be my age, maybe a bit younger. When she got there she looked like she had just gotten home from school. At first I was confused as to whether she was there to be a servant or if she was someone’s daughter and was just being respectful to her guest but she made the coffee for us. I don’t know if I have described the coffee process but it’s not adding hot water to a pot and pressing a button. It is a full on process. Starting with burning the itan, and making the coffee and then serving us each 3 different servings. I saw some other girls in aunty Netsant’s coldesack, who were the maids and they looked like they were in their teens. I guess what I’m wondering is how they get that position. Is that something they work towards? Does it just happen? Is it arranged by their families? I guess it just seems odd to me because I’m conditioned to go to school and find a job, is this just a side job for them? Much like everything else I guess I’m just confused. Surprised?
My second to last day at Aunty Netsant’s we went to see my Aunt Almaz. There I spent some time with her daughter Mami, and her two kids who I have never meant: Lebain and Endalk (legit name, meaning as you are). This was cool because I hardly get to see them. My aunt said the last time she saw me I was 7 or 8. We had a delicious lunch and I played with the kids and then we left.
The week at aunty Netsant’s flew by. My brother told me my time in Addis would fly by, but I didn’t believe it until today. The last week just flew before my eyes. Now I’m back at the hotel, reading and writing and realizing, I now only have a little over two weeks left. Crazy.
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